淡香水

淡香水（Eau de toilette）是一類氣味較為輕微的香水。[1][2][3]也常被稱作“芳香水”并含有一定量的酒精。[4]通常會直接在沐浴後塗抹於皮膚上。[5][6]

不同品牌的瓶裝淡香水

淡香水命名時常會加上其中的主要成份，例如天竺葵水中的天竺葵、薰衣水中的薰衣草等。[7]因為常用花作為原料，因此也常被稱作“花香水”。[8][9][10][11]

歷史

14世紀波蘭的伊莉莎白（1305-1380）發明了一種混合酒精的芳香油來塗抹皮膚。[12]這大約就是“匈牙利水”，即最早的淡香水，[13]也是古龍水的前身。[14]傳說年屆七十且身體欠佳的女王在使用了這種香水後竟恢復了健康。此外，匈牙利水還含有迷迭香成份。[15]

法國國王路易十四也使用過淡香水為自己的襯衫染香，其材料包括沉香、麝香、橘子花、蔷薇水及其他香料。[12]

酒精
配製香水，1910年

一般會使用一些溶劑來溶解香油，但其必要性存在爭議。而大多數溶劑都是乙醇或乙醇與水的混合物，乙醇也可以起到擴散劑的作用，使得香水的香味更容易被人嗅到。相對含有3-5%芳香油、80-90%的酒精和15%的水的古龍水來說，淡香水的酒精濃度低得多，一般只有60-80%，而芳香油則一般有2-8%。[16]因此也被當做是一種稀釋過的古龍水或濃香水。[17][18]傳統上古龍水都含有柑橘油和芳香物質，但淡香水並沒有類似要求。[19][20]

健康

一些淡香水被認為可以滋潤皮膚並有一些其他的醫療價值。[21][22][23] 1905年的《Medical Record》曾報導說噴灑淡香水可以恢復人們的精力。[24][25] 14至16世紀有一類淡香水被認為有驅除黑死病的功效。[13][26]

參見

參考資料
  1. The Free Dictionary definition
  2. MacMillan Dictionary
  3. Cambridge Advanced Learner's Dictionary definition
  4. Cristiani, p. 117
  5. toilet water term meaning
  6. Distinguishing Colognes, Perfumes, Scents, & Toilet Waters
  7. Ebert, p. 304
  8. Lawless, p. 39
  9. Baker, p. 262
  10. Fettner, p. 102
  11. Cox, p. 118
  12. Sherrow, p. 125 King Louis XIV (1638-1715) had his shirts scented with toilet water that included aloewood, rosewood, orangle flower, musk, and spices. The concoction was called "heavenly water" ...
  13. Stoddart, p. 154
  14. Müller, p. 348
  15. The History of Perfume 的存檔，存档日期2015-02-08.
  16. Groom, p. 329
  17. eau de toil definition from the online Free Dictionary
  18. Thesaurus online dictionary
  19. Grolier, p. 154
  20. Consumer reports, pp. 409-411
  21. Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, p. 34
  22. Hiss, pp. 918-919
  23. Frank, p. 414
  24. Dewey, p. 55
  25. Interstate druggist, Volume 7, page 333
  26. Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities, 1550-1820 by Nancy Cox and Karin Dannehl

參考文獻
  • Baker, William Henry, A dictionary of men's wear..., W. H. Baker, 1908
  • Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, Vol. 61, No. 11, ISSN 0405-668X, Published by Active Interest Media, Inc.
  • Consumer reports, Volumes 25-26, Consumers Union of United States, 1960
  • Cox, Nancy C., Perceptions of retailing in early modern England, Ashgate Publishing, Ltd., 2007, ISBN 0-7546-3771-9
  • Cristiani, Richard S., Perfumery and kindred arts: A comprehensive treatise on perfumery, H. C. Baird, 1877
  • Dewey, Willis Alonzo, Medical century, Volume 14, Medical Century Company., 1906
  • Ebert, Albert Ethelbert, The Standard formulary, G.P. Engelhard & Co., 1897
  • Fettner, Ann Tucker, Potpourri, incense, and other fragrant concoctions, Workman Pub. Co., 1977, ISBN 0-911104-97-6
  • Grolier, The New book of knowledge, Grolier, 1986, ISBN 0-7172-0517-7
  • Groom, Nigel, The new perfume handbook, Springer, 1997, ISBN 0-7514-0403-9
  • Hiss, A. Emil, The new standard formulary:, G.P. Engelhard, 1910
  • Müller, Peter M., Perfumes: art, science, and technology, Springer, 1994, ISBN 0-7514-0157-9
  • Sherrow, Victoria, For appearance' sake: the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2001, ISBN 1-57356-204-1
  • Stoddart, David Michael, The scented ape: the biology and culture of human odour, Cambridge University Press, 1990, ISBN 0-521-39561-5
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